Previous owner installed new fuel pump. My initial suspect was the water-type automatic choke, a common problem with the original Zenith carbs. Starting tomorrow we are in the 30s and 40s for the foreseeable future! Phooka is living up to its name, for after all that work the start was even worse - though it was not missing, the idle was much higher and would not kick down for a bit, and it jumps back up to high idle. The diaphragm must be bad, as the pump clicks away merrily. About all that is left to do is adapt the header to the stock exhaust and top up the cooling system. I am completely flat on this one. I believe it is in the ignition switch.
The first thing to go will be all of the smog equipment, which covers most of the engine. New Fuel Pump, New Gas Tank, and the Carb was spotless on the inside. Idling for several minutes, then smoke out of the exhaust when revved, indicates worn valve guides, also if you do a downhill on a trailing throttle then open it up. So I removed the old distributor, which turned out to be a bodged early 60s 25D with a jury-rigged power lead. The timing marks are not lining up, with 1 firing way off the mark on the harmonic balance. I'll clean the block and start putting things back together.
I was wondering, since this car has a cat and it directly under the carb, could the carb body have warped due to exposure to heat? These 48-State Legal semi-universal catalytic converters have a catalyst specifically designed for your vehicle — just cut out your old catalytic converter and weld in the new one. But I'm clutching at straws now. So, I can only surmise that I have fuel, spark, air in, exhaust out, timing is correct, the sky is blue and the birds are still singing. The cable was first and went in easily. The spring-loaded air valve was being sucked closed instead of open, which caused the engine to choke out at low idle speeds, and put a lot of unburned gas out of the tailpipe. A new stainless steel exhaust header is in the laundry room, also ready to go.
I still need to get the carburetor sorted out. I also replaced the smog pump and air filters, and installed new spark plugs. Original overdrive for high speed freeway cruising. If so the fault lies in your emissions canister. Then it idled down and possibly fouled the plugs.
So of course, the car doesn't run properly. It still is not idling well, and there is a metallic rattle that seems to be coming from the catalytic converter. I replaced the condenser with a new one - no change. March 19, 2019 - The weather cooperated and I was able to pressure-wash the engine bay and block. I had to go back and redo one small section, but the gasket is now solidly attached. If you have a 12v light you may need to power it from a separate 12v supply as it may not work with the reduced cranking voltage. I also installed a fuel pressure regulator and set it at 2.
The original setup routed all power for the cooling fans through the temperature sensor switch, which would burn out. A prior owner installed a manual toggle switch for the fans - I added a 30-amp relay which is activated by a new thermo switch. Replaced both electric fan motors. A three-stage attack with clay bar, polish, and wax brought it out quite nicely. The result looks factory and works well. The car fired up with no leaks and smooth running, thought he timing needs to be adjusted. Thanks again for your help! After about 20 to 30 minutes, the idle starts to drop and the engine eventually sputters and dies.
I have a new solenoid in my parts store, but that means I have to pull the starter off. Is your manifold heat shield in tact? However losing one cylinder after running for a while should definitely not be enough to make the engine stop altogether. It sounds good and fits well otherwise. This created a condition that heated the carb to very high temps. November 11, 2018 - Despite brisk temperatures, I was able to take Phooka out for a nice top-down drive to my Mom's. S Schreiber I don't know about the catalytic converter requirements in Washington, but I would think by now it is not functioning the way it should anyhow. The new fuel pump did fill the front fuel filter, but the real issue turned out to be the automatic choke - the plugs were fouling out with gas.
As the engine is warming is still runs fine. See the seller's listing for full details and description of any imperfections. Then again, the engine was rebuilt not that long ago. In the latter case it indicates the pump cut out or was under-delivering. I took it off in 1980 replaced it with a bypass pipe and re-installed it several years ago. .
The Live is active now. Besides driving well, everything claimed in the ad appeared to be correct, and it even had the smog pump hooked up and working! I decided to swap back to the original carburetor, and as we compared the two Chip noticed the throttle plate on the 'new' carb had been installed backwards. The choke is indeed working properly now after the rebuild - it hadn't before. If I can find a block pump cheap, I may just replace the one I have. Chip came over and we ran a compressions test - all good and all slightly different, which means the head and gasket are in good shape. The exhaust system was also no real problem - I smeared joint compound on the inside and outside of both resonator joints and clamped it tight, then let it sit for 4 hours per recommendation.