Install the tie rod end with new boot, tighten to spec, and use a new cotter pin to secure the castle nut. Inspect the boot and look for a tear or hole. Keep in mind the passenger side may have a intermediate shaft, under the car towards the center that you may need to unbolt also. Put on the new axle nut but do not tighten it yet. You have to unbolt the MacPherson strut where it attaches to the knuckle.
My impact wrench Im sure doesnt have that kinda torque, either way gonna have my mechanic friend do it, didnt want to have to pay to have it done,but need it done asap and Im busy moving out of my house etc. You may find that some fluid will leak out of the transmission when you remove the axle. But you should be able to Google those. First off block off the rear wheels, put the handbrake on. Are you replacing the axle? Be careful if you hammer the axle shaft out of the hub-- not only damaging the axle shaft for a core return, but you also may damage the wheel bearings inside the hub-- I have a 300 dollar receipt as testimony to this. If you see any the boot is bad and needs replacing. Also tried my air gun and impact wrench at 140psi with no luck.
Next you remove the 2 bolts on each side holding the A arm to the strut. I would recommend replacing the entire cv axle as one unit. In time, the hub bearing may wear out. Be careful of what you use as a fulcrum. So I went and returned it got another and tried the pipe trick on the end, that breaker bar snapped also and i cant exchange it now and dont want to buy another. Remove the axle nut, its the giant nut … usually 32mm directly in the middle of your brake rotor. Clean and flush the parts sufficiently blow-dry them, be careful not to damage sliding surfaces mating surfaces, when applying sealant, remove the old sealant from the mounting surface; then remove any moisture, oil, and foreign materials from the application mounting surfaces.
Get a Haynes or Subaru Factory Shop Manual for your car, and read up on this procedure. Not sure what that is offhand. If you purchase the part you may be able to lower this price. I recommend going to a certified mechanic unless you are fairly savvy with cars. Always use shop paper for cleaning inside components, avoid using cotton gloves or shop rags to prevent entering lint, during assembly, observe the specified tightening torque, and apply new differential gear oil, petroleum G, jelly, or multi-purpose grease as specified for each vehicle, necessary.
You'll also need to replace fluid lost, and you should replace the axle seals to avoid having to do this all over again later just to replace a leaking seal. If the driveaxle splines stick in the hub tap on the end of the driveaxle with aplastic hammer. This can be a rather difficult repair as you have to partially disassemble the majority of the entire front suspension to remove the axle on each side being replaced. Or an impact wrench, if you've got one. Basically you remove the nut from the axle, then undo the front brake assembly, and unbolt the front suspension from the ball joint.
Took about 30 seconds and it started to move slightly. Make sure the knuckle is supported so that you're not just ramming the axle into the transmission when you hit it. The joint its … elf will pop, and make noises if it is defective. Whats a guy got to do to get a damn axle nut off? However, a seasoned one should be able to handle it with a good manual and a little patience. A wheel hub assembly holds your tires and rims in place, so a wheel bearing failure can quickly become dangerous. This can cause a roaring or clicking sound at the wheel end, or vibrations in your steering wheel.
Removing and installing side bearing inner race, installing drive pinion rear bearing outer, installing drive pinion front bearing outer, installing drive pinion rear bearing inner. Not a great option, but still an option. There is a circlip holding it in the side gear of the diff, so you may need to lever it out with a crowbar or prybar. The idea is to persuade the axle out of the bearing. And prices alway vary with your location. Btw, nowadays I do my own - guess that makes me pretty durned savvy ; Remove the wheel cover or hub cap.
Slide the hub assembly around out of the way the axle will pull out of the wheel hub, once you have the axle out of the wheel hub on the drivers side give it a couple of good tugs, the axle should slide out into your hand and the drivers side is done. Separate the lower control arm from the steering knuckle. First you remove the wheels and the axle nuts from both wheels. Finally, we decided to use the impact gun on it and just let it keep hitting. Inspect the boot and look for a tear or hole. The actual shapes of Kent-Moore tools may differ from those of special service tools illustrated here, removing and installing drive pinion nut, removing and installing side bearing adjuster, removing drive pinion rear bearing inner. So, you'll usually pay whatever the combination of the book labor is for both sides regardless if when it's done.