Step 2 - Remove upper ball joint There are two different approaches you can take for this. Typically, a code is accompanied by a check engine light or a big orange wrench on the dash. A floor jack is meant to lift and support only for short periods of time. This approach is the easiest, in my opinion, but it will require you to get an alignment after re-install. Half shaft removed from knuckle. This common F-150 truck issue might be the culprit. If your transmission begins to slip you need to diagnose it immediately, otherwise a small fix can turn into a very costly repair.
This article will cover how to figure out what that warning light means without having to pay someone. Just clips into the bracket, clip shown here. I argued the difference with him, and asked to see the part so I could point out the difference based on what I had learned from your pics, and he refused. This article applies to the Ford F-250 and F-350 Super Duty. Learn how to install a lift kit yourself to save some green.
The truck should will display saved trouble codes then. Step 5 - Remove half shaft This step requires the most patience as you must take care not to damage the hub seal during removal. If you did Process 2, don't forget about the alignment. The tie-rod end is the only rod that connects to the steering knuckle. Learn what it takes here!. It can be hard to properly torque the ball joint during re-install without a ball joint press, but you also won't have to get an alignment done with the first approach. Remove that plastic barrier to access the fuse box.
Remove the nuts circled here to free the upper control arm bolts. This article applies to the F-150 2004-2014. It's a 2005 with 49k mi. By - November 19, 2014 This article applies to the Ford F-150 2004-2014 and the F-250, F-350 Super Duty 2005-2014. The actuators are what engage your front wheels to the transfer case. The castle nut is circled above.
Loosen the bolt that holds in the tie-rod end until it's on the last threads. If that doesn't work, use a scanner to check for codes. Remember to use a new cotter pin if the old one is damaged. It won't happen until a class action. Hope this helps everybody out!!! You could save some hubs, damn it, and a lot of quick actions to pull off the road because of the grinding and banging.
I explained that I was not stupid and that it was obvious that they had some inventory of the old parts they'd like to get rid of, but that I wasn't going to be one of the takers. Armed with the part numbers, both old design, and new, obtained from here. Step 3 - Remove tie-rod end Separating the outer tie rod end from the knuckle is a bit easier than the ball joint. Here's a quick guide to diagnosing the problem. This article applies to the Ford F-150. Check out our step-by-step guide that will help you diagnose and fix the problem. We can help you fix them! You want to level out your F-150.
The arrow points to vacuum line. This article applies to the Ford F-150. It's called a castle nut because it resembles the battlements of a castle wall. As you are driving while heading home. Step 6 - Remove actuator Probably the easiest step in the whole process, once the half shaft is out of the knuckle the actuator will simply pull off. Being a woman, there's always the stereotype that we don't know what we're talking about when it comes to auto repair. It shouldn't rely on vacuum, or suck so much, to keep it in gear.
This is only a real issue on some models of the F-150. Some early solenoids did not have the rain cover that newer ones have and could short out if water runs down the cowl on top of it. This forum saved me an expensive trip to the shop. Step 1 - Remove the wheel If necessary, pry off and set the center cap aside. This article applies to the F-250, F-350 Super.
Then, finally, I discovered that when I put it into 4wd, the noise stopped immediately. This article applies to the Ford F-150 2004-2014 and F-250 Super Duty 2005-2014. You might have a problem! Most of the time you can figure out what the codes mean by searching the Ford-Trucks. Use a floor jack to lift the vehicle high enough to slide a jack stand underneath. Step 4 - Wheel hub The hardest parts are out of the way now, the rest just takes some patience but is definitely on the easier side.
Symptoms of bad actuators include a whine from the front hubs as well as the front wheels not locking in. Overtime the gears inside can wear down causing the front wheels to not lock in. Loosen all the lug nuts, but don't remove them yet. I'll be reading a lot more in the future. This article applies to the Ford F-150 2004-2014 All F-150s come with a raked stance. I have a 2004 F-150, and am going through this same problem.