Do tell me if I'm wrong. An overheated condenser will easily cause a pressure build up in the system. I have done air on many cars and have never seen a relief valve. Stop Mickey Mousing around and fix the system correctly. So I went out there today and hooked up a good ground and battery positive to the compressor to see if still worked.
Hence when you overfilled to 80 psi on the low side, the valve did not blow. We test systems with the doors open, fan on high, and the engine speed at 1500 to 2500 rpm for a reason. He replaces the fan and drops the car off at my office, saying the problem is solved. I went to the lounge and after sitting there for 5 minutes annoyed I walked out and asked for my car and left. And that little F'er was spraying R134 all over the place.
But to awesome forums like this, the web, and people willing to share and help, we are going to put out those businesses that think short term. What are you waiting for? Or ride around in the heat! Once you replaced the relief valve, how did you recharge the system? The nozzle to recharge is the low end and I'm wondering if the relief valve has tripped and closes a switch of sorts to retain the high pressure in the system on the low end to prevent my particular circumstance from becoming worse. Normally the compressor is cycled on and off during its operation, is it the job of the same switch to cycle it on and off? Also, when i plug the compressor into the cars pigtail, it doesn't work. I might just put a little in to avoid another failure but be able to get some cool air. It's also possible some problem like a stuck relay has caused the compressor to run when it's not supposed to, when the fan wasn't on either.
So here's where I'm at. Is there any troubleshooting procedures to check solely for the pressure release valve on the top of the compressor? There is a slight possibility that he screwed up and didn't flush properly or he got some air in the system. The collected solids settle at the bottom of the separator until exiting via the purge system. A hexagonal bolt with a circular stupid looking thing inside it. We deliver anywhere in the United States and orders are shipped instantly from our host of strategically placed warehouses all over the country. The expansion valve is accessed inside the car just in front of the evaporator. They were happy to do this for free! You can do this whole job yourself, guages are the first sep.
In some cases there's some validation to his diagnosis charge but in this situation the guy wasn't listening and it was a sin for him to open the hood. So the high side will build up pressure and eventually, blow the relief valve. When shopping around for a valve, see to it that the valve is designed and built according to the year, make, and model of the vehicle. Otherwise, the valve won't be able to control the pressure of the refrigerant and may easily break apart and develop leaks. The pressure switch is for safety purposes only. There is a safety switch bolted on the filter that is supposed to cut off the clutch if the pressure gets too high.
It has ~65K miles and has worked fine. Quality The valve has to be made of high-grade raw materials, so it can withstand pressure and regulate it effectively. Check it with soapy water. But if you're not sure of what to do, you can have a trusted mechanic take a look at it for you instead. I've had the valve in my old E23 blow off great clouds of R12 after shutting the car off and restarting after a few minutes. As a result the fan settings determine the volume they pump by virtue of evaporation rates of the freon to maintain a predetermined evaporator temperature of 35F. It never would cool properly.
A recent poster had sucess doing this with his honda, try a search. I also have a 2003 Galant 2. It has to be to check the low side line. I opened the hood and it was a little smokey. I'll also swap relays to see if that is causing the problem. Tim ------------------------- To thine own self be true.
Could it be due to a defective expansion valve? As for most of us, I believe we are willing to pay for quality professional work but on the same token we don't want to get screwed either. Maybe if you shut the car off and turned it on right away you could recreate the blow off. But if you don't want to fool with Ac systems, then have the shop pull the vacuum and recharge the system. I didn't see any leaks. I put a new valve in and vacuumed and recharged and was able to get pressures to 200psi before it release again. If the compressor is over-pressurizing, the internal regulation mechanism is failed and the compressor will need to be replaced or overhauled the latter not being an option.
Even if you are lucky enought to put in the exactly correct amount of refrigerant, it will blow out the relief valve when the car is stopped for a few minutes. No sure what is going on. Can you give me some advice; tell me what to look for at this point? Any insight on this matter would be greatly appreciated. If that blow out disc on the compressor is blown time for a new compressor. Recharging by pressure is very difficult with the changing ambient temps etc. Something else that I forgot to mention earlier is that I hear a lot of hissing from the the new expansion valve.
Dad's Auto Jeff and Inman - You guys rock! Best of all, all of our items are heavily discounted and you may save as much as 70% from regular prices. Shopping online in the U. How did you ask for it with the dealer? I figure the dye isn't circulating since most of the C134 has sprayed out. You really need to measure the pressure when it is happening to see if it is indeed abnormally high. It will stay closed under all the time all normal operating conditions.